10 tips for choosing a car battery

On this basis, batteries are divided into three groups:

• serviced - Batteries that can be repaired even with a short circuit, gradually leaving the market for automotive parts and consumables. Their disadvantages include low strength, since the walls are not made of impact-resistant and lightweight plastic, but of ebonite. In addition, such batteries are filled mainly with mastic, which tends to dry out, as a result of which the insulation is broken and a gradual “release” of the charge into the environment occurs.
• underserved - it is to this type that the bulk of the batteries sold on the domestic market belongs. In fact, their main parameters are almost identical to the classics, but there is a significant increase in structural quality and insulating properties. In the opinion of most experts, this is the most preferred type of battery for operation in the climatic conditions of Russia.
• unattended - The name of these batteries speaks for itself. Made in a deaf "sealed" case, they do not require adding electrolyte, which limits the possibility of their maintenance. There are quite a few such models on the domestic market, since their use is justified only in stable climatic zones (in Europe, America and partly in Asia). Yes, and they are far from suitable for all cars: another feature of these batteries lies in the release for specific model lines.

The most important battery parameter, showing how much energy will be given for 20 hours of operation when fully charged. This physical quantity is measured in ampere-hours (Ah), and it is mandatory to indicate it in the marking (which is dedicated to a whole paragraph). In general, for passenger cars, the battery capacity can vary from 40 to 70 Ah, and for trucks it can even reach 180-200 Ah. It is very important to choose the best option, which is possible either when focusing on the previous battery that was in the car, or when studying the documentation for your vehicle.

It is important to remember that a mistake in selecting a battery by capacity is not too critical and, in general, is acceptable. When choosing a battery with a lower energy reserve, the working resource will be quickly exhausted, which will result in the need for additional financial costs. The choice of a battery with a larger capacity is completely capable of playing a “cruel” joke, not coming up in size to the allocated seat by a few centimeters. Be extremely careful.

There are several ways to solve the problem of how to choose a battery in terms of dimensions: either study your old model in detail (with measurements in width, length and height), or make inquiries in the service, having received advice specifically for your car (whether it be an American Chevrolet, Japanese "Toyota" or domestic "VAZ").

It should be noted that the dimensions of almost all batteries, as well as the configuration of the cases, are made with a large degree of identity. Most often, the main difference between them lies in the mass parameter, which, in fact, does not play a big role when installed in a car. The only exception here is the Japanese auto industry with its original corporate "atmosphere". Their batteries are already higher than European ones, so, alas, it will not work to install a battery from Toyota in a conditional VAZ.

A very simple and at the same time important aspect that requires great care from the car owner. Before purchasing a new battery, be sure to check the location of the terminals under the hood of your vehicle.There are no standards governing compliance with the placement of the cathode and anode in the models themselves, just as there are no uniform conventions among automakers. In this regard, there are often cases when the “minus” of the battery is located on the other side of the terminal, the length of which is not enough to make such a connection.

With the most “bad” outcome, by mixing up the polarity of the battery connection, you can cause a short circuit in the power circuit, burning not only consumer devices (of which there are most in modern cars), but also disabling the battery itself.

An indicator characterizing the amount of current supplied to the starter to rotate the engine shaft. All standard batteries are calculated from operating conditions at a temperature of +27 degrees Celsius, showing at this mark the maximum of their working abilities. However, when the temperature drops to a conditional -18 degrees Celsius, the same batteries will lose up to 60% of the nominal performance, giving out only 40% of the energy. With such small values ​​​​of starting current, the engine simply cannot start.

In the general case, this parameter is associated with the class and volume of the battery. However, there are special models on the market that are designed for more specific operating conditions. Thus, starting current values ​​can vary greatly for vehicles operated in regions with low temperatures, where there is a need to spin up an engine filled with very viscous, thick oil.

Since the batteries used in domestic realities cannot be fit into a single framework, additional parameters for the "cold" and "hot" start currents were introduced. Cold cranking current is the number of amps a battery can deliver for 30 seconds at -18 degrees Celsius without the voltage dropping below a minimum of 7.2 volts. Accordingly, the higher the starting current of the battery in such conditions, the greater its starting power.

Despite the gradual flooding of the market with special models, you can solve the problem of cold starting by purchasing a standard battery, the power of which is twice that required to start your vehicle's engine. Ultimately, the question of which battery is most suitable for operation in such difficult climatic conditions is up to you. However, most experienced users in their reviews recommend considering the option of purchasing a more expensive and more powerful option, which excludes further overpayments for the purchase of another battery.

The second extreme of starting the engine under conditions other than standard. Shows the number of amperes of current that the battery is capable of delivering in the summer season with a strong overheating of the engine. Similar to a cold start, a hot start requires twice the battery power, but is inherently more problematic (especially if the car's engine has a large volume and high compression, as well as air conditioning in the passenger compartment).If you operate a car in a place with abnormally high temperatures, be sure to choose a battery whose power is much higher than the nominal power required (written in the vehicle documentation).

In this case, a small overpayment will save you from the need to quickly purchase another standard battery that has failed due to the forced consumption of a working resource.

The standard marking of batteries includes five main items:

• starting current - marked as GOST (on batteries manufactured in Russia), SAE (made in the USA), EN (production of countries that are part of the United Europe), DIN (a separate standard for products manufactured in Germany). In some cases, they have a quantitative marking of the cold start current (after the designation ICC, CCA) and the starter charge current (IP).
• nominal battery capacity - marked in alphanumeric format, indicating the value and the corresponding dimension. For example, 60 Ah.
• rated voltage - the same marking principle as on the rated capacity. The unit of measurement is volts, general view (for example): 12 V.
• date of manufacture.
• country of production, manufacturer, its address - mandatory data on the location of the enterprise.

In the absence of any item from those indicated, according to expert reviews, feel free to proceed with choosing another battery from the presented market range.

On this basis, batteries can be divided into three main categories:

• economy - the most "primitive" models using inexpensive structural materials and technologies. They have a good supply of working resource, are very adapted to work under standard operating conditions. Significant fluctuations lead to a deterioration in starting performance, which is why problems often occur even with a slight drop (or increase) in temperature.
• standard - the "golden mean" between the two extremes, which has the best value for money. According to the classic parameter, the level of sales is the most popular category among car owners.
• premium - batteries of the highest level of performance, differing from economy options both in an increased working resource and a stable level of starting current. The latter figure may be higher by 30-100 amperes. In addition, these batteries have a longer warranty, ranging from 1 to 1.5 years.

In this case, the choice entirely depends on your financial capabilities and preferences. Do not neglect the budget category of the segment - recently the level of these batteries has almost come close to that of standard models.

Due to the fact that batteries are one of the main consumables, and the number of cars in operation continues to grow steadily, many low-grade fakes have appeared on the market. Due to the fact that the risk of stumbling upon a fake is very high, be sure to find out a few important nuances before buying a battery:

• inspect the case and plugs (in the case of a low-maintenance battery) for chips, damage and tightness.In addition, pay special attention to the terminals - whether they have a smooth surface, and also if special protective caps are included with them. If the last element is missing or scuffs and serious roughness were found on the metal of the terminals, it is quite possible that you have a fake in front of you. "Singed" manufacturers very rarely pay attention to such minor details.
• be sure to check the label for information about the manufacturer (country, factory name and location). True, if in the case of mechanical and complete little things, fake manufacturers do not bother, then they treat labeling with a great deal of responsibility. Currently, information about manufacturers is copied from original batteries, so this inspection point may not give a clear answer to the question of whether you have a fake.
• be sure to check the presence of the date of manufacture and whether it was interrupted. If in the case of dry-charged batteries (electrolyte salts in them are in a dry form and require dilution with water), this does not play a big role, since the shelf life of these models is a priori high, then flooded batteries should not be older than six months from the date of manufacture.
• check that the product data sheet is included in the battery pack.